Paris Fashion Week 2022 just came to an end, and we’re feeling inspired fresh off the first runways since Covid. So while the curtains may have closed on the city of love, Team Raintree has gone through the fashion archives to reveal five designers in Cambodia that have been sewing their way to London, LA and beyond.
Team Raintree loves fashion, not only because it’s fun but also because it’s important. For our economy, it's an industry that generates up to $7 billion dollars per year. It gives almost one million people in Cambodia job opportunities and for some, the chance for social mobility. For our society, it’s the fabric that holds communities together, and can tell stories of current events - like how the masks we wear now remind us we’re in this together.
The industry is often perceived as frivolous or vain amidst all the glitz and glam. After seeing how designers in our community are developing their craft and showcasing on international stages, we believe there is a lot to celebrate. Join us to explore how five designers from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap are bringing Cambodia to the world in our rundown below.
Fair Trade Brand Brings Cambodian Ikat Textiles to Maison et Objet in Paris
Maison et Objet is amongst the world’s most anticipated design events, showcasing the latest interior design and home decor. Along with its sibling MOM (Maison et Objet and More), the duo are regarded as the industry’s go-to events for product design inspiration and interior visionaries. Before Covid, the event drew over 85,000 visitors from 160 countries. So you can imagine our delight to hear that a unique selection of Cambodian textile was featured at the 2021 edition of the trade show.
Earlier this year, signature handwoven ikat designed by Cambodian house (h) A.N.D was introduced to the world with the support of CBI, an initiative by the Netherlands’ Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The colourful cloths are crafted with cotton instead of silk, making it easier to care for and offered at a much more affordable rate. Since its establishment in 2012, (h) A.N.D's work has been featured in exhibitions and on runways in Berlin, London, Paris and beyond. But their international endeavours don't make them any less active in Cambodia as the brand has not missed a Phnom Penh Fashion Week since its conception in 2011. Plus if you were one of the jolly 3,000+ crowd at our Christmas @ Raintree festival, you might also remember seeing (h) A.N.D as one of the brightest exhibitors in our winter wonderland! To follow (h) A.N.D’s journey, find them on facebook @artisandesigners or drop by their shop in Phnom Penh (#31, St. 240).
Natacha Van Takes On The ‘Big Four’ Fashion Weeks
Dubbed as the ‘Big Four’, London, Paris, Milan and New York Fashion Weeks are the most prominent fashion events in the world. It may surprise you that one designer in our community has hit all four over her blossoming career in the last 5 years. Cambodian-Hongkongese designer Natacha has exhibited her diverse collections on runways across the globe, spurred from her biggest break at the 2017 London Fashion Week in support of BBC Children In Need.
Inspired by mythology, both her ready-to-wear and couture collections are unapologetically feminine. With a degree in styling and photography from the London College of Fashion, she looks at the world through the perspective of a photographer. Through her work she naturally incorporates emotional elements into her design like silhouettes that move and fabrics in her favourite pastel shades. Natacha's clients love her work for its thoughtful approach to eveningwear, proving that you don’t have to compromise comfort for style. That, we can testify to, having seen her work on our co-founder Zoë.
We’re excited for what’s next for Natacha and can't wait to see her latest collection up close. If you’re as intrigued as we are, find her on instagram or facebook @natachavancollection.
Remy Hou Hits Hollywood Dressing Some Global Superstars
Where else do we look to for the most glamorous (or outrageous) styles if not Hollywood? With over a decade of industry experience, Cambodian-American designer Remy has made a name for himself in Los Angeles. A-list celebrities such as John Legend, Kanye West and Justin Bieber have sported Remy’s designs in glossy shoots and even on red carpets.
In 2017, Remy decided to marry his passion for fashion with film, and has since been building his portfolio as a film costume designer. In fact, he’s also the designer behind the award-winning, Khmer action movie - Jailbreak. Returning to Phnom Penh in 2015 in hopes to advance both the film and fashion industries in Cambodia. He’s currently working on multiple film projects, so stay tuned as they are touted to premiere next year (Covid permitting). For now, check out his Instagram @remyhou to see the everyday life of Remy.
Eric Raisina Sends Handwoven Fabrics Straight from Siem Reap to Paris Haute Couture Ateliers
Landing in Cambodia for the first time in 1998, the Madagascar-born designer fell madly in love with Khmer handwoven silk. Inspired, he returned in 2001 to live. He has since been handcrafting haute textiles from his studio in Siem Reap, propelling him to all sorts of audiences.
Eric’s collections are unabashedly colourful and chic with influences from across Europe, Africa and Asia. For the past two decades, the Paris-educated designer has been working with local weavers and seamstresses to create bespoke fabrics as a central medium in fashion design. Eric truly believes that by creating your own textile and fabrics, designers are able to understand how to work with it in truly original ways. This enables them to create pieces that more precisely capture their identity and vision.
His signature textiles like silk ‘fur’ and ‘raffa’ are not only what distinguish his work, but they are also the very fabrics that take him to luxury brand houses such as Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix. Closer to home, his work has also been celebrated at the Embassy of France in Cambodia, and featured on the cover of Sovrin Magazine, Cambodia’s first design magazine in Khmer. In spite of Covid, this year he also was invited by the French Institute to do a virtual talk about the future of textiles in the country.
Feast your eyes on his colourful craft on his website www.ericraisina.com or visit his boutique at the Aviary Hotel in Siem Reap.
Soknan Showcases Khmer Couture @ KL Fashion Week
Friend of Raintree and one of our favourite creatives, Soknan graduated with a degree in agriculture - but it’s the Cambodian premium fashion landscape that he hopes to grow. He painstakingly trains all six apprentices and seamstresses at his eponymous atelier, Soknan Boutique, in efforts to help the younger generation recognise the quality craftsmanship demanded for couture. Whether it’s dreamlike tulle for bridal gowns or intricate beading for evening dresses, everything made at the workshop is touched by a real pair of hands. With limited resources to work with in the country, Soknan takes on the challenge by traveling the world to source premium materials for his collections. He has more luggages than he has limbs, and who knows how he manages to pack a factory’s worth of materials in his bag before coming home.
In 2014, he showcased original made-to-measure pieces at the KL Fashion Week and soon after at the Malaysia Fashion Week. “I want to show the international audience that as Cambodians, we can do it,” Soknan said. “Mostly they think Cambodians just copy work, but I want to show that we aren't just seamstresses and have the ability to design high quality clothing.”
Team Raintree feels privileged that our Canopy event space was the backdrop for Soknan to showcase his ethereal Spring and Summer collections in 2018 and 2019. In case you missed it, watch the highlights of his Haute-à-Porter Spring/Summer collection - the Rumination Subtractive, hosted at Raintree in the video here.
***
These are just five designers in our community that are starting to show the world what talent in the Cambodian fashion industry can look like. We recognise that the industry may have suffered a bad rep in the past. By becoming aware of these artists’ fruitful journeys, we hope that emerging creatives in the country may be inspired to take their dreams seriously and start making waves in the field of fashion. We’re very excited to see what’s to come, especially now that the fashion industry in Cambodia is progressively forming its own identity.
If you’ve learnt something surprising, or been inspired by how designers are creating contemporary Cambodian culture, subscribe to our newsletter for more features like this. We’re also looking for a social media superstar to join our growing marketing team, so if you want to work alongside our editorial creative team, send us your CV to hello@raintreecambodia.com. In the meantime, follow us @raintreecambodia to stay updated on Cambodian art and culture.